Before you purchase any shed, horse barn or run-in shed, we recommend that you check with your local government's building/code enforcement office.
Building code officials will not only supply your permit (for a fee that varies according to municipality), they will also let you know about "setback" requirements, that will determine where the shed can be placed in relation to the property lines of your land. There may also
be specific restrictions or requirments you must meet depending on the location of your property, how your property is classified (residential, farm, commercial), and whether your new shed will be classified as a permanent or temporary structure based on the size of the building and its method of construction. Residents of subdivisions are advised to check any subdivision regulations concerning detached buildings.
Differing regulations and requirements among different municipalities make it impossible for PA Storage Sheds to advise you on the exact requirements that will be necessary in your area. As the property owner, you will be responsible for abiding by all municipal regulations in your particular area. However we are happy to assist in any way we can by providing information concerning building specs and other aspects of construction that may ease the permitting process.
The Site: Your new shed or horse barn will require a level site. This may require some digging to eliminate grades or humps. We recommend allowing sufficient time to prepare the site prior to delivery. This will result in an attractive installation and less ongoing maintenance for you. After the site is leveled, we recommend adding a crushed stone base to the site. Crushed stone is inexpensive, easy to apply and provides excellent drainage for your shed or building. In our experience, 3/4" crushed blue stone works best for the shed base.
SHED BASE:
- ¾" crushed stone, 2-3" deep, 1' larger than the size of the shed.
Crushed stone provides better drainage for rain or snow melt around the perimeter of the shed,
especially if no gutters will be installed on the shed. Water that splashes directly onto the ground will eventually create a muddy area that will splash up onto the shed walls.
- To prepare a gravel base, remove the sod from an area slightly larger than the shed, level the site by removing dirt where necessary, and spread the gravel to a depth of about three inches. Tamp the gravel down with a piece of 4-by-4 or metal tamper until it is evenly distributed and the site is flat and level.
- A "frame" of pressure-treated 4x4's or cement block will help keep the stone in place and create a neater appearance; however, it is not required
- Cement pillars, with or without tie-downs, are required by some municipalities. Check local regulations for quantity and recommended placement.
OR
- Concrete slab - 3-4" thick
NOT RECOMMENDED:
- Cinder blocks. Inevitably, there will be some "settling" after your shed is delivered and placed on site. Placing a shed up on cinder blocks greatly increases the risk that your shed will settle unevenly. Additionally, delivery and placement of your shed can be with more difficult with cinder blocks as a base.
A level site is necessary for delivery and set-up. Since the base of our barns and run-in sheds is 6"x6" pressure-treated timbers, they will withstand many years of direct ground contact. A gravel base will enhance the drainage around your building and offer additional protection from dampness. Fine gravel, preferably stone dust, is what we recommend as an ideal base.
- Recommend concrete "pillars" - 18" diameter, 3-4' deep and 3-4" above ground level.
- This will prevent the building from "settling" unevenly due to ground freezing/thawing cycles which can change the ground level over time.
- We recommend these pillars be placed at the building corners and every 12' under the foundation, around the building's perimeter.
- The area around the barn and under the overhang should be back filled with stone dust to the pillar height
For safety reasons, some townships require that the building be anchored. This is sometimes referred to as a "hurricane kit." Be sure to check with your municipal agency regarding this requirement.
The easiest way to anchor a barn, if you are setting it on cement pillars, is to get a 2' piece of 1" wide steel strapping/banding for each pillar. When pouring the pillar, insert 1' of the strapping into the wet cement allowing 1' to stick out the top. This strap can then be folded over and the barn set on top of it. To avoid any interference with the building's steel re-enforced corners, we recommend that the steel strapping be folded into the barn and bolted on to the 6x6 timber foundation, from the inside, after the barn is set down.
Hurricane Bracket |
Another option would be to use a ¼" steel hurricane bracket. This bracket would be bolted to the concrete footer with concrete screws and then lag bolted to the 6x6 that makes up the base of the building.
If you are not setting your barn or run-in on cement pillars, we recommend our standard anchor kit. We bury the "auger" about 2' - 3' in the ground with the anchoring loop and attached cable extending above the ground. We then attach the cable from the anchor to the building's tow hooks.
Either way, anchoring your building will help stabilize it against side-to-side shifting or vertical lifting in the event of high winds.
Ultimately, it is your responsibility to check with all municipal agencies and obtain all necessary permits and inspections.
Please be sure your site is accessible on the day of delivery. Failure to do so can result in a delay in the delivery
of your barn. We ask that you provide a suitably prepared site and access to that site over a solid driveway or across solid ground. You must provide clearance through any trees and plantings. Please note that the fence opening or gate needs to be 12' wide for 10' wide buildings and 14' wide for 12' wide buildings - assuming we can drive straight into your pasture. For fences or gates 8' or higher, add 2' extra.
Additionally, the overhead clearance should to be 14'. If the access is around corners, trees, shrubs, etc., the clearances may need to be increased. Ideally, we should have a 50' to 60' minimum drive-away area from the
end of the shed after it comes off the end of the trailer. This should be as level as possible from pad site to ground level. The best description is to imagine a shed delivery as being similar to a boat slipping off a boat trailer into the water and truck and trailer pulling away from the end of it. Our delivery equipment is 4-wheel drive and we are able to traverse most terrain without incident. However, the weather and ground conditions do effect our delivery schedule. We appreciate your patience and cooperation when the weather is not cooperating with us.
If you are in doubt regarding your site accessibility, please call us to discuss your property layout. We may request you fax a rough diagram or email pictures of your site for further clarification. Since our deliveries take us in many directions we may be able to coordinate a site inspection, if we happen to be in your area, thereby removing any doubt as to whether or not delivery is feasible.
DELIVERY:
SITE PREP FOR STORAGE SHEDS :: Examples
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